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Post by andreas on Mar 27, 2009 15:41:37 GMT -5
Good day my CP pals! ;D Brand new piccies of my plants from the last 5 days!!!! I´m muchly in a hurry, so very short comments this time. Drosera burmannii "Humpty Doo" - a little redder than the last time. *Cough* My new Drosera filiformis "all red" which is currently more "all green" *blush* Finally the flower of my Drosera whittakeri ssp. whittakeri "Talisker National Park" Same flower which is almost larger than the rosette ;D A large blooming Pygmy: Drosera miniata "Coomallo" And of course the best comes last...hehe! The breath taking flowers of Drosera hamiltonii. *bounce* Pictures taken today! Unfortunately some severe difficulties with the color reproduction this time! I have used a different film this time and experimented with two different lamps (2700 Kelvin and 4000 Kelvin) and also using a blue filter for artificial light with a warmer tone. Still no satisfying results. But I hope you like the pics though! ;-) Cheers, Andy
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Post by daniel on Mar 28, 2009 19:37:50 GMT -5
Hi Andy, nice pictures, especially the D. hamiltonii flower. My plants have never flowered till now, really strange. What have you done with them? ;D The greenish D. whittakeri ssp. whittakeri " flower is also very nice. Best regards, Dani
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Post by andreas on Mar 31, 2009 8:04:51 GMT -5
The greenish D. whittakeri ssp. whittakeri " flower is also very nice. Don´t you poke fun at me!!! *forefinger raised!* Well, by using artificial light for photographing it is almost impossible to get a clean white on white flowers! I have a blue correction filter for artificial light. Usually daylight has a color temperature of 6500 Kelvin. I tried a combination of that filter with a 4000 energy saving bulb and a 2700 ESL. The blue correction filter raises the color temperature of the light source at 2200 K. The first combination caused a slight blue color shift, the second a greenish. Even when using Photoshop to edit the scanned negatives you can´t get rid of the color shift totally! If you reduce green or cyan too muchly or increase magenta or red too muchly you cause another color shift. Sunlight is best! And after moving to a new home with a balcony my plant photography shall improve! I think the plants will flower again next year! Next chance for photos! Dani, I have found out that D. hamiltonii need both to induce flowers: reduction of photoperiod and cool temperatures in winter! From September to December the artificial lighting is reduced half an hour every 2 weeks from 14 hrs per day in August to 9 in the middle of Dec. My Hamiltonii experiences night lows of 5 - 10°C and daytime temperatures are never above 15°C. The plants survive slight freezes but the overground rosette will die and won´t flower in spring! So freezes are best avoided. I also keep D. hamiltonii a little drier in winter but I have no clue if this is an important factor for flowering. Reduction of photoperiod and temperature is the most important! Best wishes for flowers next year, Dani! *tu* Andreas
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Post by daniel on Mar 31, 2009 19:23:18 GMT -5
Hi Andy, ;D ;D ;D Till now i´ve almost never taken pictures with sun light, i´ll have to try it too. I´ve always the problem with the blue/violett flower colour, but that can be changed relatively good with for example Gimp. About the D. hamiltonii, yes, i´ll reduce next autumn the photoperiod and temperature more than this year. This should be the reason why i´ve had no flowers. For sure that´s also the reason why my D. slackii and D. esterhuyseniae have also not flowered. Thanks for the hint. Best regards, Dani
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Post by khoas on Apr 1, 2009 0:52:26 GMT -5
Couple notes on whittakerii you might not know. In the wild they have tendency to grow in full sun and grow quite often in clayey soils. I supect that whittakerii need at least Iron for red colouration along with full sun. I got whittakerii in full sun and they are alway green! I grow them in standard peat/sand mix. This is really annoying as I see beautiful plants in wild rich in reds, oranges and even purplish shades and they are only hour alway.
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Post by andreas on Apr 1, 2009 5:07:15 GMT -5
Hi Dani, with a digital camera photographing under artfifcial lights appears easier to me than on film as you have the possibility to adjust the camera according to the light source. The Kodak film I used this time obviously wasn´t very good anyway. I´ll go on with Fuji Superia which is far better for plant photography. *tu* Of course if I´d spend hours on editing I could get better results. But I don´t have the time to! ;D Oh, if I could afford a good digital camera for my demands... Khoas, thank you for your notes! I´ve seen pictures Sean Spence took in the wild. Indeed there were green plants in full sun next to deep red or orange plants. Sean never mentioned something about iron. I´m aware I could offer my plants more light and I hope I´ll be able to provide a sunny location next season after I moved into a new home. Well, I wonder if I should consider trying misting the plants with diluted ferriferous fertilisizer. Hm, my soil mix contains a few pieces of lava rock which contains some iron... Happy growing! Andreas
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